Due to the microclimate caused by the big Lake Neusiedl and about 30 smaller Lakes surrounding the vineyards, Kracher is able to produce small quantities of Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) of internationally acclaimed quality.  TBA literally means “dry berry selected harvest”. These are the richest, sweetest, rarest, and most costly of all Austrian wines. Produced only in exceptional years, made from individual grapes shriveled almost to raisins by botrytis. Persistent rain and high pressure systems at harvest created ideal conditions for Alois Kracher in 2002.  In fact, Kracher himself told me that 2002 is one of the three best vintages he has produced, along with the 1981’s and 1995’s.  So don’t wait for the wine critics high 90 to tripe digit scores to be announced to get in on this action.

The wines are fermented in wood and stainless steel, with Alois deciding on a case by case basis whether they should be placed in new barrels or traditional older casks, how much time they each should spend on its lees, whether they should be racked into more new oak or stainless steel tanks. There is no recipe here, each year each lot gets individual attention.

Kracher divides his wines into three basic categories: 1) “Zwischen den Seen” (between the lakes), the more traditional cuvee vinified in previously used casks, 2) “Nouvelle Vague” (new wave barrique), a modern, non-traditional approach using new oak barrels, and 3) “Grande Cuvee”, a multi-varietal blend.

Each bottling carries the name of the varietal and a number from 1 to 15. The numbers indicate what he perceived to be their relative level of concentration, the higher the number, the richer the wine.  Where number 1 might yield 500 liters per 1,000 kg of grapes harvested, numbers 11 or 12 may yield only 150 liters of wine per 1,000 kg of grapes.  That is why the higher numbers are more expensive.  This is a labor of love.

While each wine is distinctly different, they are all opulent, luscious, unctuous, full-bodied, extremely botrytised, and amazingly long. Most important, each wine is outstanding in its own right.

This batch of Kracher’s TBA will have to last us two years, as the heat of 2003 was a disaster for Kracher. There will be little or no TBA to offer next year.

First I will highlight two other unique wines that are well worth buying, that are not featured in our August newsletter.  The dry 2004 Illmitz Pinot Gris which Kracher makes for occasions when a drier wine is more appropriate, and his 2002 TBA No. 12 which is the rarest of all TBA’s and can not legally be classified as wine, because the alcohol level is only 3.9%.  All Kracher wines are very limited.

2004 Illmitz (by Kracher) Pinot Gris 750ML$15.99

Gorgeous nose of white flowers and grapefruit.  This wine is crisp with citrusy acidity, beautiful ripe fruit and a great finish. Awesome by itself but will complement lots of great foods like sushi, baked fish, roast chicken, salads, and fresh oysters.

2002 Kracher #12 TBA “Nouvelle Vague” $91.33

This is Essencia from Austria .  If this were Tokaji Essencia from Hungary it would cost between $300 to $500 per half bottle. This is no joke.  This is the most extracted pure sweet botrytis affected juice you will ever taste.  The wine is so extracted that after a year of slow fermenting it was only able to reach 3.9% alcohol, which in Europe means it can not legally be called wine.  Therefore it is labeled as “partially fermented grape juice”. The blend is just over 50% Welschriesling and the rest is Scheurebe. If you have never tasted Essencia, here is your chance for an experience out of this world.

We also secured one 2002 Kracher Wooden Box “Kollektion” featuring one bottle each of numbers 1 (not available in the US ) through numbers 12.  Only 10 of these are being imported to the US .

And don't forget the ESSENCIA:
No. 12 Kracher TBA “Nouvelle Vague” 98RP $91.33