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The quality of these singular, extraordinary
offerings is world-class.
Since this wine debuted in 1990, Harlan Estate has
produced one of
California
's most impressive Cabernet Sauvignons in each vintage of the nineties.
The impressive mountainside vineyard is situated on the western side of
Napa
Valley
, overlooking
Martha's
Vineyard
. No compromises are made in
producing this dazzling wine. Proprietor Bill Harlan, assisted by his
winemaker, Bob Levy, and consulting oenologist,
France
's Michel Rolland, have turned out a wine of exquisite richness and
complexity. The wine offers the intensity one expects from a top
California
Cabernet-based wine, yet it incorporates a sense of grace, complexity,
and elegance that clearly places it in the top echelon of
California
wines.
 2004
BOND VECINA $375
96 RP
The 2004 Vecina shares an opaque
ruby/purple color, smells of wet steel, crushed rocks, spring flowers,
forest floor, and plenty of cedar and chocolatey black currant and
blackberry notes. A huge, spicy, complex nose is followed by a wine of
impressive ripeness, full-bodied power, and a multi-dimensional mouthfeel
with huge amounts of glycerin, fruit, and thickness. This is a
connoisseur’s treat, and despite the fruit-forward character of the
vintage, this wine ideally needs 2-4 years of bottle age and should keep
for 30-35+ years.
2004 BOND ST
EDEN
$400
97RP
The 2004 St. Eden seems to hit all
the sweet spots on my palate. A wine of great complexity, richness, and
intensity, with oodles of creme de cassis fruit and plenty of roasted
herbs and meatiness, with exceptional power and richness, this wine has
fleshed out since I had it last year, and seems to be destined to be one
of Bond’s most compelling wines, a full-bodied wine with great purity,
richness, and beautifully integrated acidity, wood, and tannin. Give it
1-3 years of bottle age and drink it over the following 25 years.
2004 HARLAN THE
MAIDEN $325
95RP
I was blown away by the 2004 The
Maiden, which out of bottle is even better than it was from barrel. This
wine exhibits a rather flamboyant scorched earth, lead pencil, incense,
licorice, and blackberry and cassis-scented nose and flavors. The wine has
superb concentration and is opulent, fleshy, and very much in keeping with
the style of the vintage. Despite its accessibility, I suspect this wine
will drink well for at least two decades.
2004
HARLAN ESTATE $750
98RP
The 2004 Harlan Estate is probably
the most precocious and accessible Harlan Estate that this perfectionist
team has made.
Already compelling, the wine has
notes of roasted coffee, charcoal, blackberry, spring flowers, and some
background sweet, toasty notes. Dense, fleshy, exuberant, even flamboyant
by the standards of Bill Harlan, this wine exhibits no jaggedness or rough
edges, has relatively high tannins, but they melt away on the
palate.
The wine is sensationally
well-endowed, long, and rich – a tour de force in winemaking. They can
do no wrong at Harlan, and it is obvious, even in the most challenging
vintages such as 1998, that this estate is a true grand cru/first growth,
making wines of irrefutable world-class quality. Of course, none of this
comes cheap, as the price is now moving up into the league with Screaming
Eagle, but there are no shortage of takers.
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