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 Didier Dagueneau

In and around the village of St. Andelain, just outside of Pouilly-sur-Loire, Didier Dagueneau makes some of the most unique and interesting wines in the world. His craft is the ultimate fusion of modern winemaking and ultra-traditional techniques of vineyard management. He does nothing half way, and thus his wines achieve the ultimate expression of terroir, climate and technique. 

This icon of a winemaker tends his Pouilly Fumé vineyards making every attempt possible to respect the life and the soul of the soil.  His goal is to produce wines from vineyards farmed using the same techniques that the old-timers of the village used when they were producing those memorable wines of which we only read about. He literally is on a crusade to redeem the reputation of authentic Pouilly-Fumé. To tend these vineyards, he employs twice the number of employees than a conventional winery would use for the same acreage. And with these workers, his goal is to produce, on the average, 75% of the yields common to his neighbors. A horse is used to plow certain parcels where he feels that the compacting of the soil by the tractor’s wheels would hurt the vines. Dagueneau, ever the perfectionist, attends to every detail, from vineyard management (biodynamic since 1993) to the cellar, which looks like a cathedral. 

Often somewhat closed in their early youth, these are high-acid wines which should be cellared like the great white wines of Burgundy. It is after a couple of years in the bottle that they expand, open up and literally explode with dimensions of fruit and terroir found in no other wines. 

2006 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly $60.95     $54.09 thru March
It looks a little funny in print, but for those who appreciate a bit of wine history lore, Blanc Fumé de Pouilly was commonly used in this region long before Pouilly-Fumé became the name du jour. This one was barrel-fermented and aged half in stainless steel and half in large, neutral barrels. It is the new En Chailloux, so to speak, since Didier will no longer be labeling a wine as such, and it includes some fruit from Didier's famed Pur Sang, Buisson Renard and Silex cuvees. 

2006 Pur Sang $79.95     $70.93 thru March      $195 1.5L
Arguably Dagueneau's most popular cuvee, this wine is produced primarily from a vineyard north of Saint Andelain called La Folie. The soil here is deeper clay with some chalky limestone. There is virtually no silex in the soil. The vineyard is gently sloped and has perfect south/southeast exposure. Some smaller plots on the Saint Andelain hill occasionally make it into this cuvee. Barrel fermented and aged mostly in 450 and 600 liter barrels, some of Dagueneau's famous cigar barrels are used as well. This barrel, designed by Didier, is 350 liters and agressively elongated. He seems to prefer these barrels after they've been used once or twice.  New oak in this bottling ranges from 25-35% depending on the year.

2006 Silex $112.50    $99.75 thru March          $275 1.5L Magnum
This is Dagueneau's Grand Cru if you will. Produced only from plots high on the slopes of Saint Andelain, and only from vineyards that possess high amounts of silex. Vines here range from 15-50 years of age and are cropped to lower yields than in some other vineyards.  Barrel fermented and aged in 450, 600 liter and cigar barrels. New oak in this bottling is similar to the Pur Sang. Because of the lower clay content in the soil, this wine tends to be more austere in its youth than the Pur Sang which explains why it often receives lower scores in its youth from wine journals that rate how a wine drinks today. Do not be fooled!  Those familiar with older vintages of Silex will attest to the fact that if given the time in bottle, it will always rise above the rest.

2005 Dagueneau Les Jardins de Babylone $127.95     $113.49 thru March
Dagueneau’s approach is to produce wines that bring out the natural minerality of the soil and have, above all else, balance, harmony and longevity. The relative sweetness of each vintage will be secondary to the balance of acidity, texture and richness of fruit and the wines will never be chaptalised. After the disappointment of having his first vintage from the property tainted by the corks, this 2005 vintage is sure to make a splash.  A great vintage for sweet wine in the area, the wine shows classic apricot and peach with some caramel and citrus.  Amazing viscosity is supported by bright acidity. This will be a wine for the ages . This is an historic first release for a wine that will put most late harvest wines to shame.

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